Wednesday, January 31, 2007

Mollydooker Redux

When I started this whole adventure, my first post was about Mollydooker's The Boxer; and although I haven't completely changed my mind, I have modified my view of this particular wine and the others produced by these winemakers. My friend Adam and I were talking about this and, without any collusion, we both reached the same conclusion (I feel like Jesse Jackson here). Now, before I get too far down this road, let me say that I still like these wines very much. I just wonder whether Robert Parker's ravings about them accounts for some of my blind faith and the dog in heat way I went looking for them. When I found them and tasted them, I really liked these wines. When I went back to them...not as much. That's where I am right now.

The Boxer (RP95) was a lot of fun to drink and when I first drank it, as I said, I loved it as well as its more highly rated and acclaimed sister, The Carnival of Love (RP99). They are round, full-flavored fruit bombs. But I have continued to drink both and maybe the best way to describe their shortcomings is with one word, "too". There's just too much flavor, almost like lobster soaked in melted butter. A little butter can really help the taste, too much turns you off. That's the feeling I had when I went back to these wines, particularly when compared side-by-side with Penfold's RWT and Shirvington Shiraz, which I did the other day. Neither of the 'dooker's offerings were quite as good (my favorite of the 4 was the Shirvington).

Maybe there is something to what the critics say about this type of winemaking, that there is a certain sameness (homogeneity??) to tastes and flavors of these wines which, in hindsight, is a little disappointing. This is not a criticism of this style of winemaking, which clearly turns out a great product. They just seem like they were put together in a way that is lacking something, a soul, a depth, terroir (?), something.

Truth: Most franco-oeniphiles, particularly self-described ones, would rather drink wine that tastes like dirt and cat piss and call it "terroir". There’s a book called Noble Rot all about the French wine thing and how many of the “traditional” French wine people hate Parker for, among other things, making wine accessible to the masses and forcing winemakers to make wines that appeal to the unsophisticated Americal pallet. Homogenization aside, they hate anything that modernizes or improved the making of wine. I can taste a left bank wine from a great chateau and know what I am supposed to like about it, but sometimes these wines just taste like dirt and smell like cat piss.

New world wines can be phenomenal. Better than French and, with the exception of California Cabs, remarkably affordable for those of who don't want to/can't spend $40.00 and up for a bottle of wine (or whose spouse won't let us...). Look around at lesser known French, South American and other Southern hemisphere vineyards and you'll find great wines at almost every price point.

Bottom line, the Mollydookers are very good and certainly worth the current price (about $30/btl), but probably not worth all the rest of hype or the 95+ scores. I'll keep drinking and enjoying the 'dooker, but it makes me think that maybe there is something to this whole "terroir" thing after all.

Saturday, January 27, 2007

2001 Ch. Leoville-Poyferre

I was at a celebration for my friends' new baby, who for a boy, was very cute. I know about these things. I have 2 boys and, generally, newborn boys look like 90 year old men waiting to play shuffle board on a cruiseliner or Southern Florida. After listening to the parents speak about their child and how/why they were naming their child (one just as amazing and well spoken as the other), I spyed an open bottle of 2001 Leoville-Poyferre. It was sitting toward the rear of a built-in piece that holds wine glasses and other bar items. It was breathing and getting ready...for me. Obviously, I waited for my friend to go first and offer me some, but I had already scoped out the situation.

I've had other vintages and am waiting on some 2003s and 2005s (futures) to mature, but I've always like this wine. Once I got my glass (and the type of glass does make a difference in tasting wine), I stuck my head in and inhaled. The smell was big and ripe and amazing. Unfortunately the FIRST taste wasn't quite as good as the smell. The 2001 is still a bit tight and needs a few more years before it is really ready. That being said, I don't want you to get the wrong idea, this is/was a fantastic wine. The smell merely gives you a foreshadowing of better things to come.

Ch. Leoville-Poyferre is one of the second growths of St. Julien (Left Bank, i.e., Cabernet based wine). For many years it was a noted underperformer, partlicularly given where the wines are made and some of the wines that are made on essentially the same ground (at other chateaux). This all changed about 25 years ago. The current owners have improved and updated their wine making process and sought out and followed the advice of well-known French winemaker Michelle Rolland.

The 2001 Poyferre is still a pretty young claret. However, it's still a pretty full-bodied wine, with something for everyone. It has great terroir for French wine traditionalists and a nice round fruit flavor for the rest of us uncivilized folk. Still a young wine, there's a fair amount of tannins (like I said, the wine is still pretty tight) that will likely continue to ripen and mellow over the next few years Still, this wine has a fabulous silkiness on the pallet.

Wines from this area of the Medoc are known for their balance, frangrance and deep color. The 2001 Leoville-Poyferre does not disappoint and should age well for years to come.

Wellesley's Newest Foody Find


We went to Alta Strada last night. It is located in the space recently vacated by Fig's and despite a somewhat limited menu, I think we traded up getting Michael Schlow's newest restaurant. It is vastly different than his other, and more high-end, eateries (Radius, Great Bay & Via Matta). As I understand it, this is also Schlow's first restaurant without partner Chris Myers and he has clearly succeeded with good, heartly, inexpensive, Italian food...just what the local area was missing. It offers a full bar, counter seating, very pleasant service and beautiful, rustic surroundings.

The menu offers a variety of classic Tuscan foods and an well-rounded good wine list at very reasonable prices. Whether you want thin crust pizza, gnocchi with spicy sausage and peas or a perfectly roasted chicken with meyer lemon, you won't be disappointed. The only drawback: limited selections for children or "selective eaters."

We started with a roasted eggplant salad with goat cheese and some antipasti (3, a bowl of califlower, a bowl of roasted eggplant and red pepper tapinade and marinated mushrooms) which were light, well seasoned and delicious with the freshly baked bread (which looked like it would be great for making pannini). The bottle of wine, a good 2002 Barberi d'Asti (Nebbiolo grape) came pre-decanted in a carafe (this can also be ordered by the glass). While I prefer the more traditional wine opening (at the table, cork, blah, blah), I can't complain about the wine which was light, flavorful and very easy to drink. It had fairly high acidity and low tannins, which is why it paired well with both the chicken, tomato sauce or meat (sausage).

We had the gnocchi and roasted chicken. The gnocchi was tossed with really good sausage and served in a light tomato cream sauce. A few of the gnocchi could have been cooked more, but other than this complaint, the dish was excellent. The chicken was perfectly cooked and seasoned with lots of lemon flavor and what I find missing from most good roast chicken, really crispy skin and moist juicy meat. As someone who likes to cook, I always find that as simple a dish as roast chicken is, it is extremely hard to master. Schlow has. My kids loved the pizza which was thin crusted and rustic with excellent cheese flavor. My more culinarily adventurous younger son thought the spaghetti with little clams in a light tomato sauce was fantastic.

The kids had had it so dessert was on the quick side. We had pistacchio ice cream and it was so good, it had to be homemade. We didn't have coffee or other drinks, but it looked good at the neighboring tables.

The Good: We had reservations and were seated promply. The service was attentive without being hovering and the server was knew the menu and the wine list. They keep a number of tables open (no reservations needed) and plan to open a "Take-out Market" downstairs. The wine list, as I said was well-rounded and reasonably priced.

The Bad: The biggest problems with Alta Strada are the limited selections on the menu, a lack of choices for children and somewhat limited seating. Once it becomes more well known, it will be as packed as Blue Ginger. As a matter of fact, 1 week after it's opening, that may have already happened. We arrived at 6:00 pm for our reservation and were seated immediately, but the bar and waiting area was already jammed with people who were told the wait would be over an hour. With Schlow turning out his usual excellent food, this place won't remain a secret for long

Bottom Line: Despite Figs' more varied and extensive menu, I think Alta Strada is just what Wellesley needed and my diet did not.

Saturday, January 20, 2007

Patriots Butt Kickin Texas Chili

I've made this chili a number of times and everytime it's a winner. Be careful, though, it's very spicy (which I like) and labor intensive. You may want to lessen the amount of chiles and chipotles depending on your/your family's taste, but, as much as you may want to, do not substitute oil for the bacon fat. The layer of flavor that this provides to this chili is unbelievable. You just won't get the same result from canola or vegetable oil. (You can get about 1/4 cup of bacon grease by cooking about 1/2 lbs. of bacon (obviously, the best part of preparing this dish is eating the bacon while you cook, unless the kids beat you to it).


Texas Style Chili
Recipe courtesy Emeril Lagasse, 2003





Ingredients

1/4 cup rendered bacon grease or vegetable oil
3 pound tri-tip or boneless sirloin or chuck roast, cubed
1 large white onion, chopped
3 large jalapeno or serrano peppers, stemmed, seeded and chopped
5 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
5 New Mexican green or red chiles (Annahiems), roasted, stemmed, seeded and chopped
6 tablespoons chili powder
1 tablespoon ground cumin
2 teaspoons Mexican oregano
2 teaspoons salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped
1 (12-ounce) bottle Lone Star or Shiner Bock beer (actually any amber beer will do)
2 ounces tequila
3 chipotle chiles in adobo, chopped
4 to 5 cups beef stock
1/4 cup to 6 tablespooons masa harina
Chopped fresh cilantro leaves, garnish
Finely chopped white onions, garnish
Sour cream, garnish
Fresh hot cornbread, accompaniment
*NOTE: When working with chile peppers, always wear rubber gloves and be careful not to touch your eyes or skin. Wash all utensils and cutting surfaces well with hot, soapy water before proceeding.

Preparation

  • In a large heavy pot (such as a cast iron Dutch oven), heat the fat or oil over high heat. Add the meat and sear, stirring, until no longer pink.
  • Lower the heat to medium-high. Add the onions, jalapenos, garlic, chiles, and chili powder, and cook, stirring constantly, until the onions are wilted and start to color, 4 to 5 minutes.
  • Add the cumin, oregano, salt, and pepper, and cook until fragrant, about 20 seconds.
  • Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
  • Add the beer and tequila and cook, stirring, to deglaze the pan.
  • Add the chipotles and adobo sauce and 4 cups of the stock, stir well, and bring to a boil.
  • Reduce the heat and simmer partially covered, stirring occasionally, until the meat is very tender, 2 to 3 hours, adding the remaining cup of stock as needed if the chili becomes too dry or thick.
  • When the meat is tender and the chili is ready, add the masa harina 1 teaspoon at a time to thicken to desired consistency, stirring well and cooking after the addition of each before adding more.
  • Remove from the heat and correct the seasoning, to taste. Skim any fat from the surface.
    Ladle into bowls and garnish each with cilantro, chopped onions, and a dollop of sour cream. Serve with hot cornbread and plenty of beer.

Wednesday, January 10, 2007

Blue Ginger Butter Fish in Sake-Miso Glaze

By directive of the VC guy, here is a great, easy dish (to help you lose the post-holiday weight). This is favorite at Blue Ginger Restaurant and is absolutely delicious. I think it's better grilled than broiled, but either way, it's delicious. This recipe serves four.


Ingredients

1 cup light miso
1/2 cup mirin
1/2 cup sake
1 tbsp finely chopped ginger
1/2 canola oil
1/4 cup sugar
12-16 oz black cod (about 3-4 oz per person) (butterfish is very difficult to get and black cod, I have been told, is basically the same thing....Sea Bass also works well)

Preparation

Combine miso, mirin, sake, ginger, oil and sugar
Stir until mixture is blended smooth and well mixed
Add fish and coat. Cover with seran wrap or in zip-loc bag and marinate overnight refrigerated.

Bring to room temperature and grill or broil fish turning once about 10-12 minutes

Plate the fish with a seaweed salad and finish with some reduced sweet soy sauce, wasabi aoli, and pickled ginger.

Tuesday, January 9, 2007

Strangely Silent

I've been strangely silent over the past week or so while trying to figure out how to publish a web site. I own the domain name www.thewinedefender.com and have been playing around with web development software and learning what html and an ftp is. That being said, I have been neglecting my wine drinking, which is a crime. So, after getting complaints from the 2 other people who see this blog, I decided to stop shirking my responsibilities and get back to work.

Coming soon: Reviews of Re-Entry Cabernet (California), Damilano Barolo, and recipes for duck confit and as promised a long time ago, How to Fry a Turkey.

Tuesday, January 2, 2007

Christmas Chowder

One of the difficulties in cooking with chiles is uniformity of heat. Go to any supermarket and buy any number of fresh chiles, whether serranos, habaneros, jalapenos, or, even as here, poblanos and you'll find one that tastes like a green pepper and another, sitting next to it in the bin, will make you scream. The recipe that gave me a little trouble is the one shown further down on this blog. When a recipe calls for a number of chiles, it's sometimes difficult to figure out how much to use, i.e., should I follow the recipe or freelance based on experience and gut feelings on how the quantity or quality of the chiles being used will impact the outcome of the dish. Thus was my dilemma while cooking for Chistmas Eve dinner.

Poblano chiles are not particularly hot as chiles go, but they can add more heat to a dish than you want if you're not careful -- as they did for my chowder. I should've known from the smell of the peppers -- I could smell the oils thru the flesh -- that I used too much. That being said, the Chowder was delicious, just too much punch from the peppers. That's the problem, particular with a soup or other dish where you rely on layering flavors to achieve what you want. It's not always as simple as merely adding the peppers a bit at a time until you hit the right level on the heat-o-meter. Having said that, in the future, I'd rather go too light than too heavy.

As a result, I've amended the recipe downward on the amount of chiles, especially if you double the recipe as I did. That change has already been made on the blog.

The great part about cooking like this is it gives you ideas to create any variety of other dishes and the skills to adapt other dishes so that you can create things based upon taste and not anchoring yourself to a recipe.